kashmir

Yes, I am in Srinagar Kashmir. Yes, it's the disputed territory of Kashmir. Although I am obviously not in the no man zone there is a heavy millitary presence at the airport and at certain parts of the main town. No, I am not in any danger. It's a long story about the logistics, but suffice to say that I changed my plans to go to the mountain hill station of Shimla at the last minute and instead bought a plane ticket to Srinagar and booked a few nights on a House Boat in the Dal and Nagin Lakes. Dal Lake and this area is considered the "jewel" of Kashmir. The area is essentially close to the base of the Himalayas and I saw K2 from the plane... or at least it was pointed out by the pilot and I took a picture of what I thought was it from the plane but I can't be sure. Although the airport is under massive military guard, and they checked baggage and passports and tickets at least 4 times leaving from Delhi, and I saw several fighter jets further down the runway (sorry if this is worrying anyone), but really once your out of that area everthing is peacful and everyone is happy... I think much of this is due to the fact that tonight is the last night of Ramadan and tomorrow is a festival that I'm told is the equivalent of our Christmas.

The lake is fringed with houseboats built by the British because the local Raj wouldn't allow them to own property, and these essentially are floating pine boxes permanently moored to shore and decorated in a bit of British chintz. I haven't seen much of the lakes yet, but there are boats with flower sellers (I bought a dying arrangement for way too much money off one vendor's skiff), and there are apparently floating gardens. I will see more of the lakes tomorrow and hopefully share pictures of this as well as the floating mughal gardens.

Tomorrow I have been invited to the family house of the gentleman who is making arrangements for me (and who runs treks and tours throughout this area as well as Rajasthan... which he is trying to sell me on) to share in the feast. I went there tonight as well to break the fast for today at sundown and his family is lovely, including wife, son, nephew, brother, sister, all living in a big house in a seemingly upscale neighborhood. I am also planning on a a couple of treks into the hills with a guide and a few tourists in the next few days, and then a jeep ride over the countryside to Dharamsala early next week.

Ok, my ride is leaving. More later.